What Indian Cities Can Learn from Jaisalmer’s Timeless Architecture

When we talk about battling urban heat in Indian cities, most solutions today focus on greenery, high-tech cooling systems, and new-age materials. But long before the age of air conditioning and smart thermostats, a desert city in Rajasthan had already figured it out.

Welcome to Jaisalmer—the Golden City that has kept its cool for centuries in the sweltering heart of the Thar Desert. So how did it do this without lush trees or AC units buzzing on every rooftop?

Architect and professor Vinod Gupta has the answer—and it lies in the city's architecture and urban planning.

The Science Hidden in Sandstone

At a recent panel discussion titled "Learning from Jaisalmer" at Delhi’s India International Centre, Vinod Gupta shared fascinating insights from his PhD research at IIT Delhi. His findings? The core parts of Jaisalmer are consistently cooler than the city’s average temperature—a complete contrast to modern-day urban heat islands.

And no, it’s not because of tree cover. Jaisalmer, famously treeless, keeps cool through dense construction, narrow streets, shaded courtyards, jali work, and ventilation shafts.

Designing for the Desert

In the 1980s, Gupta took extensive temperature readings across Jaisalmer’s traditional havelis, narrow lanes, and even in the mud-housed Bhunga areas. What he discovered wasn’t just a temperature difference, but a climate-responsive city designed centuries ago.

Let’s break down the key elements that made this possible:

1. Shaded Courtyards

Courtyards in Jaisalmer homes aren't just for aesthetics. Strategically placed so every room opens into them, they provide both social space and natural ventilation, allowing hot air to rise and escape while cooler air circulates below.

2. Jali Carvings with a Purpose

Those intricate sandstone lattices? They're not just for Instagram-worthy shots. Gupta explained how the jali’s fins deflect solar radiation, significantly reducing indoor heat.

3. Natural Ventilation Shafts

From vertical ducts to cleverly placed openings, these features draw warm air out and pull cooler air in—working like the desert’s own air conditioning system.

When Modern Designs Fail

Professor Snehanshu Mukherjee, who joined Gupta on several research visits to Jaisalmer, shared a striking anecdote: A man, inspired by modern architecture in Jaipur, rebuilt his traditional home into a concrete modern one. But the new house was hotter inside—even desert coolers couldn’t help. His father? He preferred staying outside, in the harsh desert sun, over enduring the stifling heat indoors.

That’s the irony: in trying to modernize, we often lose the comfort that traditional designs inherently offer.

A Blueprint for the Future?

As cities across India grapple with rising temperatures, rapid urbanization, and unsustainable development, perhaps it's time to look back to move forward.

The Jaisalmer model isn’t just about nostalgia. It’s about reintroducing principles of density, passive cooling, and people-centric design. It’s a call for climate-resilient urban planning that respects both environment and culture.

Modern architecture may have glass facades and steel finishes, but without thermal comfort, what are we really building?

In Conclusion: Let’s Learn from Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer teaches us that architecture isn't just about space—it’s about climate, community, and continuity. As Gupta and other experts pointed out, there’s an urgent need to revisit traditional Indian designs—not just for aesthetics or heritage preservation, but for our very survival in a heating world.

So the next time you feel the summer sun scorching above, think of a sandstone haveli in Jaisalmer—with its cool courtyard, carved jalis, and the quiet wisdom of centuries built into its walls.

Maybe that’s where our future lies—in the past.

Sources:

"How Jaisalmer architecture cools its buildings. It has the answer to heat in Indian cities" by Krishan Murari, ThePrint, April 9, 2025.